Running multiboxing at a low resolution may be problematic due to the lack of real estate to view/monitor your other characters. If possible a second may be in order. In multiboxing, 1920x1080 is less about HD quality, and more about being able to run a reasonable number of pixels on the main character and have enough to spare to view the others. This is because when you have 4 toons on follow, you can't always see them while driving from your main as they're behind you!. But if it is free at the moment, worth a shot, see what it's like.
For the i5, I'd be looking at the top end, like 4670, 4690. Pricing varies a little but these are usually going to be around $200-220 (I'm guessing your US based) If you need to save that little extra, a 4590 or even a 4570. There is also the 4460, which on the main stats is on par with a 4570; in the fine print there is probably some difference. Personally I'd go for a K version. Even if you're not into overclocking, you can usually get an extra 200Mhz or so without any effort. The gamer oriented motherboards tend to do it all for you.
SLI is beneficial in multiboxing because it works in windowed mode, and because you can't run multiple games in FullScreen at the same time, you are instantly in windowed mode. Crossfire doesn't work in windowed mode. So you can get extra processing power if you need it, but a single 970 will allow you to multibox just fine with 1 client on quite decent graphics and the rest on lower settings at 1920x1080 so at your resolution you'll be fine.
I tend to prefer ASUS motherboards. Personal preference and I've not had a bad one previously (I don't count the one I shorted out by having cables plugged on the wrong pins - it was over 5 years old by the time this happened anyway). I did have a gigabyte board with issues once. I've never bought one since. It's funny the prejudice you keep.
DDR3/DDR4 depends on the motherboard and CPU. You'll generally be DDR3, unless you really splash out for a 6 or 8 core CPU. As for Mhz. You are aiming for about 1866 at CAS 10. Seems to be about the sweet spot. Usually as MHz goes up (data transfer rate), so does the latency, so overall there is not much difference between a CAS7-1333 and a CAS12-2400. In some software, like video editing you may notice the difference between latency and data transfer rate, but for the most part, you wont as they cancel each other out. You usually want to have as few dimms as possible for the most ram. The more dimms the more the memory controller is doing more work, and this increases latency. This means that 2x8GB dimms are better than 4x4GB dimms, if only slightly. Would you notice, probably not, but hey, why risk it, the pricing difference is minimal. It also allows you to go to 32GB if you ever need to (not likely in the short term, but give it a few years).
I also chucked in the 650W PSU, so if you want to SLI it up you could without any hassle. If you aren't going down that route, you could probably get away happily with a 500w-550w. It just limits the number of additions. On the other hand, PC parts are becoming more energy efficient again (the GTX970 is far more efficient than the previous generation).
Anyway my piss poor attempt at a list turned out as this.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/yjJ3Mp It's not the best, but should certainly be suitable. I tried to rein in the cost a little here and there as I'd originally whacked in a more expensive mobo (ASUS HERO VII) and some different ram, but the changes were reasonable compromises. Of course if you don't need a case, that's another $100 off (I just happen to like the FDD, I have 2 of them)
edit: duh, I see you put Spain in your profile, so I figured on the wrong country, I'm such a clown sometimes. The Espana version of PCPartPicker is much more limited sadly, but this updated list is reasonable too, and turns out pretty good. There just aren't any prices on the graphics cards so you may be forced to look around.
http://es.pcpartpicker.com/p/HFCRhM. I notice you have the "Not in the US" price differential too.